Beyond the Grater: Gennaro Contaldo on Using Parmigiano Reggiano DOP in Ways You Might Not Expect

We all reach for it without thinking. The finishing shower over a risotto, the snowfall across fresh pasta — Parmigiano Reggiano DOP is so woven into our kitchens that it's easy to forget just how much more it can do. Legendary Italian chef Gennaro Contaldo thinks it's time to throw out the rule book. As Parmigiano Reggiano DOP's UK brand ambassador, he's on a mission to push the cheese into places we might not expect: over fish, into dessert, alongside fresh fruit. And for those of us who understand flavour, his argument is a compelling one.

What Makes It So Special

It bears repeating, even for experienced chefs: Parmigiano Reggiano DOP is made with just milk, salt and rennet. The cows graze in Emilia-Romagna, every wheel takes around 700 litres of milk, and the finest examples age for up to 48 months or longer. During that time, proteins break down into free amino acids — glutamate chief among them, delivering the cheese's remarkable umami depth. Those crunchy crystals in a well-aged piece are tyrosine, a visible marker of slow, deep proteolysis. This is not simply a cheese to grate and move on from. It delivers salt, umami, nuttiness and a subtle lactic sweetness — and once you think about it in those terms, the possibilities open up considerably.

Gennaro is passionate about matching the age of the cheese to the dish. A 12 to 18-month Parmigiano Reggiano DOP is mild and moist, ideal for melting and for more delicate pairings. At 24 months — Gennaro's personal favourite — it has enough punch to hold its own in a crust or filling without overwhelming subtler ingredients. At 36 months and beyond, you're in full-powered territory: pungent, crumbly and deeply complex. That's your centrepiece, not your supporting act.

 Parmigiano Reggiano DOP on Fish

If the idea of coating salmon in Parmigiano Reggiano DOP gives you pause, Gennaro would like a word. His  Parmigiano Reggiano DOP and herb salmon steaks, developed for a recent  session at Westminster Kingsway College, are a masterclass in flavour logic. A salmon steak, patted dry, dusted in flour, dipped in beaten egg, then pressed into a mix of grated Parmigiano Reggiano DOP, panko breadcrumbs, dill and parsley. Into the oven at 180°C for 25 minutes. The result: a golden, savoury crust with moist, sweet fish underneath. Lemon wedges to serve.

The umami in the cheese amplifies the salmon's own savouriness rather than competing with it. The fat bastes the crust from within, producing a crunch that breadcrumbs alone cannot deliver, while the herbs bridge the two elements with freshness. Once you accept that this pairing works, you can run with it — a Parmigiano Reggiano DOP crust on baked cod, a  Parmigiano Reggiano DOP velouté beneath halibut, shavings of young Parmigiano Reggiano DOP over scallop crudo with lemon oil.

Parmigiano Reggiano DOP in Dessert

Gennaro's sweet ravioli pushes the boundaries further still — and rewards you richly. His ravioli dolci, also from the Westminster Kingsway College sessions: a rum-and-vanilla pastry filled with ricotta, semolina, tinned pear, cinnamon, lemon zest and grated Parmigiano Reggiano DOP, deep-fried until golden and drizzled with honey.

The cheese provides a savoury undertow that prevents the filling from tipping into cloying sweetness — the same principle behind salted caramel, or flaky salt over dark chocolate. The pear-Parmigiano Reggiano DOP pairing is a classic that has stood the test of time. For those working pastry sections, the possibilities are genuinely exciting: Parmigiano Reggiano DOP ice cream with roasted stone fruit, Parmigiano Reggiano DOP shortbreads with fig compote, a Parmigiano Reggiano DOP cream tart with honeyed walnuts. The cheese's natural affinity with honey, dried fruit and warm spice makes it a natural fit for the pastry kitchen.

Fruit, Honey and the Cheeseboard Reimagined

Gennaro also champions pairings that might surprise: well-aged Parmigiano Reggiano DOP with fresh pineapple, sliced fennel, or mostarda — those piquant candied fruits spiked with mustard oil that are traditional. For service, consider Parmigiano Reggiano DOP shards with honeycomb and aged balsamic as a pre-dessert, or chunks with Marcona almonds and a glass of Lambrusco at the bar. And nothing should go to waste — the rind, simmered into soups and braises once washed, releases a slow tide of umami that no stock cube can replicate. Gennaro's tip: flash the rinds through a really hot oven for 30 seconds before adding them to the pot. It transforms them.

An Old Friend, Used Anew

Gennaro has called Parmigiano Reggiano DOP a staple he simply cannot live without — an old friend that has been with him since he first stepped into a kitchen as a boy on the Amalfi Coast. These recipes are not gimmicks. They are invitations to look at something we thought we knew inside out and think again. For chefs who take pride in pushing boundaries while honouring tradition, that is exactly the kind of challenge worth taking on.

For more information, visit  https://www.tasteurope.eu/

Funded by the European Union. Views and opinions expressed are however those of the author(s) only and do not necessarily reflect those of the European Union or of the granting authority. Neither the European Union nor the granting authority can be held responsible for them.