Time, Terroir, and Tradition: The Art of Parmigiano Reggiano PDO
In March we had the immense fortune of visiting one of the historic Parmigiano Reggiano PDO production centers in Parma — a pilgrimage to the birthplace of the “King of Cheeses.” In a region where food is revered almost as religion, every bite we tasted told a story of devotion and time-honored craft, from delicate slivers of prosciutto to pillowy tortelli drenched in golden butter. Like so many artisanal treasures born here, whose quality is fiercely protected by official guardians of tradition, the making of a wheel of Parmesan remains breathtakingly simple — a centuries-old ritual that calls for just three pure ingredients, and an endless reserve of patience, passion, and pride.
But seeing the process up close — the time, the care, and the incredible skill of the craftspeople — was incredible. Walking into a Parmigiano Reggiano PDO dairy meant stepping into a living tradition, where a thousand years of knowledge and dedication are still at work today. From the moment the raw milk is gathered to the final inspection of each wheel — judged almost entirely by sight, sound, and touch — every stage is a quiet testament to craftsmanship, to the land, and to the close relationship between farmer, cheesemaker, and nature. The result is more than just a cheese; it’s a reflection of a way of life, built around respect for what we eat and the people who make it possible.
Terroir: The Soul of the Cheese
The land isn’t just where the production of Parmigiano Reggiano PDO happens—it also very much defines it. One could even go as far as to say that every wheel of cheese carries within it the fingerprint of the stunning Emilia-Romagna countryside.
At least 50% of the forage the cows eat is grown either on dairy farms in the designated area and at least 75% is grown within the production area where the dairies produce this incredible cheese. Why? Because such a diet supports a unique microbiome within the cows, a set of microbial cultures that are transferred to the milk and aid in the fermentation of the cheese. The region’s humid climate is essential—not only for growing nutrient-rich hay but also for the cheese’s slow, delicate maturation. This harmony between land, weather, cow and microbe gives Parmigiano Reggiano PDO its unmistakable character. Terroir has a true meaning here.
Craftsmanship: The Art Behind Every Wheel
The cheesemaking process is grounded in simplicity—but demands extraordinary skill. Just three ingredients are involved: raw cow’s milk, rennet, and salt. What emerges is a deliciously complex, living food.
Twice a day, the cows are milked. The evening milk is left overnight to allow the cream to rise. The next morning, it’s combined with fresh milk, unpasteurized to preserve the natural mesophilic bacteria essential for fermentation. One master cheesemaker—only one—oversees the cooking of each batch in large copper-lined vats, a material which serves to evenly distribute heat. It’s a position of tremendous responsibility, where decades of experience come into play with every decision.
Each vat produces only two wheels of Parmigiano Reggiano PDO (and each wheel takes about 550 liters of milk!) and the entire process must be strictly regulated. Until the 1950s, copper vats were gently heated over open flames to leave the lactic bacteria cultures alive and intact. Today, a more precise method uses heat sandwiched between copper and steel layers; one of the very few modern adaptations introduced. Indeed, such adaptations serve to facilitate and regulate the process, but fundamentally it remains largely unchanged.
Tradition: A Legacy Carved in Rind
Salt is introduced only after the cheese has begun to acidify – or ferment – naturally. After this stage, each wheel is soaked in a salt brine for up to 22 days. The salt – either rock or sea salt – diffuses slowly and is absorbed into the wheels, forming an edible rind that protects the interior and contributes to its iconic texture.
European law mandates that raw-milk cheese age at least 60 days, after which it is clear whether or not harmful bacteria have taken hold. Parmigiano Reggiano PDO however, must be aged at least one full year to merit the name and label. After this first year wheels are tapped and tested one by one by a quality control expert, in the incredible hall lined meters high with shelves and shelves of cheese. The smell wafting through is divine and you’d be hard-pressed to think there is anything but quality cheese; yet, only those that pass the acoustic and visual inspection earn the right to bear the Parmigiano Reggiano PDO name.
Cheese that matures for over two years develops tiny white crystals—tyrosine, one of the few amino acids visible to the naked eye. These signals of maturation aren’t just visual: they reflect the full breakdown of lactose proteins, proof that the cheese is not only lactose-free, but also nutritious and with an incredible umami flavour.
Care: Respecting Food from Start to Finish
In this region, food isn’t just eaten—it’s honored. Parmigiano Reggiano PDO is meant to be enjoyed fully. Grated, yes, but also chunked, sliced, drizzled with syrupy balsamic vinegar or local honey. Even the rind is used in cooking…and sustainability and respect for the product dictate that nothing is thrown away.
This deep respect for food and emphasis on sustainability extends to its ecosystem. At a neighbouring Prosciutto di Parma’s Galloni facility—one of the oldest and most revered—the same care and intention prevail. The process very much mirrors that of cheese: salting by hand, resting, washing, aging. The back legs of pigs, salt, and time are the only ingredients, with no chemicals, preservatives, nor shortcuts in sight. A master salter, not a machine, decides how much salt to apply depending on the size and fat ratio of the leg; and finally, after at least 16 months, sensory tests involving pricking the legs with a porous horse bone and smelling it determine quality—without ever slicing the product open.
Most importantly, these foods are part of a closed, sustainable system. The leftover whey from Parmigiano Reggiano production is fed to the same pigs that become Prosciutto di Parma. It is a centuries-old practice that turns waste into nourishment, tying two of the region’s most iconic products together in a circular story of sustainability and care.
A Taste of History, A Lesson in Living
Parmigiano Reggiano PDO and Prosciutto di Parma are much more than just delicacies. They have fed this region and its people for centuries, carrying the true meaning of terroir in every bite. They are a reflection of the land, the seasons, and the quiet dedication to preserving traditions — from soil to cow, from milk to wheel, from craggy, crumbling chunk to plate.
Parmigiano Reggiano PDO might be a daily presence in Emilia-Romagna, but there is nothing ordinary about it. Food like this doesn’t just nourish us; it reminds us how to care, how to show respect, and how to stay connected to something greater than ourselves.