Watching Gennaro Contaldo cook is a real experience. The deftness of his hand, the intuition – all the things that one expects from a master of Italian cuisine – that’s all on full and immensely charismatic display. But there is also a sense of strong, persuasive force as he impresses upon his audience the importance of tradition, history and respect for ingredients. And those ingredients include some exceptionally delicious Parmigiano Reggiano PDO – so we’re in for a treat. As the class opens, Gennaro proudly states: “Parmigiano Reggiano makes the world go round”! 

For the students at Westminster Kingsway College, this was a particularly special moment. A year ago, Gennaro had stood before them, speaking with contagious enthusiasm about what he and others call ’The King of Cheeses’. He is a storyteller. They had learned about the tight regulations which ensure the consistent quality of a cheese whose production methods have remained the same for over a thousand years, about the cows who produce the perfect milk, about the dedication of the area of origin’s almost 300 cheese makers. He showed them how the skilled craftspeople test the Parmigiano Reggiano PDO through tapping the huge wheels and listening to the sound, and about the depth of flavour differences between different maturities.

Now, those same students were stepping from theory into practice, as Gennaro cooked three recipes which, in their beautiful simplicity, leave nowhere to hide either for skill or for quality of ingredients. Fortunately, Gennaro had both at his fingertips. We were entranced.

THE RECIPES

Basic Tomato Sauce with Parmigiano Reggiano PDO Rind

A good tomato sauce is fundamental, and getting it right is both vital and easy. Gennaro’s golden rules are as follows:

• You can use tinned or fresh tomatoes, but if you use fresh, never put them in the fridge as the cold destroys the flavour.

• And no, you don’t need sugar! If a little sweetness is required, you can achieve a better, more complex and delicious result by blending in a cooked carrot.

Ingredients (serves 4-6):

4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

2 garlic cloves, finely sliced

2 x 400g tins of chopped tomatoes

½ handful of basil leaves

Salt & pepper

A piece of Parmigiano Reggiano PDO rind

Method:

Flash the Parmigiano Reggiano PDO rind in a hot oven for 30 seconds to sterilise the rind and release the flavours. Heat the olive oil in a pan over medium heat, add the garlic and sweat for a minute, being careful not to colour. Add the chopped tomatoes with about half a tomato can of water. Season, stir in the basil, and add the Parmesan rind. Cover and simmer gently for 20 minutes. Remove the basil and Parmigiano Reggiano PDO rind before serving.

At this point, Gennaro leaned over the pan, inhaling deeply. “You see, the sauce is already done—I didn’t do anything!” he declared with a flourish. What could be easier?

Basil Pesto

A moment of controversy—Gennaro revealed that he doesn’t use extra virgin olive oil for pesto. “Too strong!” he says, shaking his head. This is the moment to allow the glorious aromatic basil and the nutty 24-month Parmigiano Reggiano PDO to shine through.

Gennaro’s key tips:

• Opt for a lighter olive oil

• Don’t throw away basil stalks – throw them into a tomato sauce, they have tons of flavour!

• Making pesto in a pestle and mortar may be time consuming, but the texture is second to none – “And look how strong I am after all that pounding!”

Ingredients (serves 4-6):

1 garlic clove

Pinch of coarse sea salt

50g basil leaves

2 tbsp pine nuts

80g grated 24-month Parmigiano Reggiano PDO

5 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

Method:

If making by hand, pound the garlic and salt in a mortar. Add basil, pine nuts, and Parmigiano Reggiano PDO, pounding until a coarse paste forms. Gradually drizzle in olive oil until well combined.

Gennaro’s final trick: never mix the pesto in the heat of the pan, or it will split and turn oily. Instead, put your pesto in the bottom of a bowl, then add the pasta with a little cooking water and toss well. Perfectly coated pasta every time! A small but crucial detail that makes all the difference.

Spaghetti alla Carbonara

Timing is crucial for this one: “Take the pan off the heat and wait a couple of minutes to cool before adding the egg mixture,” Gennaro instructed. “Otherwise, you’ll end up with scrambled eggs!”

Ingredients (serves 2):

3 large egg yolks

40g grated 24-month Parmigiano Reggiano PDO (plus extra for serving)

Salt & pepper

150g guanciale or pancetta, cubed

200g spaghetti

1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

1 garlic clove

Method:

In a bowl, mix the egg yolks with Parmigiano Reggiano PDO, salt, and pepper. Set aside. Cook the spaghetti in salted boiling water. Meanwhile, heat olive oil in a frying pan, sweat the garlic, and crisp up the guanciale. Remove the garlic. Add the cooked spaghetti to the pan, toss well, and remove from heat. Stir in the egg mixture with a little pasta water, tossing until glossy.

For the students watching, it was more than a cooking demonstration. It was a masterclass in knowing your ingredients, treating them with care, and allowing them to shine. Good food doesn’t need to be about complication. We nibbled on chunks of the fresh, grassy 12 month, the crystalised, nutty 24 month and the sweet-sour, intense 36 month Parmigiano Reggiano PDO, noting their different characteristics as we watched Gennaro cook. And as he finished up, he gave one last piece of advice: “Learn the basics, learn them well, understand your ingredients, and then you can start playing.” A lesson in Parmesan and pasta, yes, but also in what it means to be a chef.

Funded by the European Union. Views and opinions expressed are however those of the author(s) only and do not necessarily reflect those of the European Union or of the granting authority. Neither the European Union nor the granting authority can be held responsible for them.